Overview
I have had the great privilege of testing all of the best down parkas in the world—over 20 models worth more than $12,000. Of these, the Patagonia Grade VII is by far the best. It is the SpaceX rocketship of down parkas. No other parka offers:
The purpose of this review is not to convince you to buy a $900 parka. Rather, the goal is to expand upon a Down Parka State of the Market Report that will be published by BackpackingLight by explaining in greater detail why this parka performs exceptionally well. In my opinion, the Grade VII is a work of art that deserves to hang on the wall in a museum. It is so good that, sometimes, I exclaim “wow!” and “oh my gosh!” when I put on. This is the only piece of outdoor gear I own with a high existence value--I derive happiness from knowing that it exists.
- As much warmth and a voluminous expedition fit for the low weight of 24 oz;
- The outstanding comfort and convenience of eight pockets;
- The most comfortable down parka hood I've ever used;
- Lightweight yet robust fabrics with welded construction to further increase durability in high wear areas.
The purpose of this review is not to convince you to buy a $900 parka. Rather, the goal is to expand upon a Down Parka State of the Market Report that will be published by BackpackingLight by explaining in greater detail why this parka performs exceptionally well. In my opinion, the Grade VII is a work of art that deserves to hang on the wall in a museum. It is so good that, sometimes, I exclaim “wow!” and “oh my gosh!” when I put on. This is the only piece of outdoor gear I own with a high existence value--I derive happiness from knowing that it exists.
The most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made
Box baffled down parkas are the pinnacle outdoor product. They are the most difficult type of clothing to construct—significantly more difficult than three-layer waterproof breathable jackets. The Grade VII is likely the single most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made. Casey Shaw, the lead designer, told me it was developed with no commercial costing concerns. The goal was to build the best possible parka and then consider taking it to market. The construction is so complex it took him a month to sew it. Then he spent a week training the best seamstresses at the factory “all the tricks and complicated maneuvers” necessary to build the baffles and pockets. He said, “No one probably needs this level of execution, but one rarely gets the opportunity to pursue excellence at this level.”
Key Points and Specifications
- This is the only premium down parka with 100% box baffled construction
- Myriad small baffles provide outstanding down stabilization, resulting in no cold spots and a higher warmth to weight ratio
- Welded seams increase durability and water resistance in high wear areas
- Robust fabrics will last for years of hard use
- Expedition cut accommodates extra layers
- Ultralight - only 24 ounces in men’s medium
- The most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made
- Performance is far superior to competing $800-$950 parkas
- $900 retail price
- See it at Patagonia.com
Comparing the World's Best Down Parkas
The two tables below show performance scores and key specifications for each parka I've tested in the last two years. Many fine parkas (including the Montbell Mirage, Arcteryx Ceres SV, and Feathered Friends Volant) were excluded from this round of testing due to their inferior performance for lightweight human-powered trips in cold weather.The chart below shows total performance scores for each parka. Note the outstanding performance of the Grade VII using the criteria and weighting shown in the table above.
In manipulating the weighting of the scoring criteria, I found the Grade VII scored the highest until the weight criterion (weight of the parka) consumed approximately 70% of the total score. This finding reinforces field testing, which concluded that the grade VII is the down parka. Below around 18 ounces, none of the parkas I've tested have been able to keep me warm on multi-day trips and/or have the features I find important on multi-day trips. For that reason, I don't know of any down garments that weigh less than 18 oz that qualify as a "proper parka."
The Grade VII is the only parka I’ve used that employs 100% box baffled construction. Most others reduce warmth by using sewn-through construction. For example, the $825 Western Mountaineering Snojack uses sewn-through baffles under the arms. Similarly, the Feathered Friends Khumbu has a sewn-through hood. And, finally, the $950 Arcteryx Firebee AR uses pleated construction, which is not a true box baffle.
The chart below shows the features scores for 12 parkas tested.
The chart below shows the durability scores for 12 parkas tested.
In manipulating the weighting of the scoring criteria, I found the Grade VII scored the highest until the weight criterion (weight of the parka) consumed approximately 70% of the total score. This finding reinforces field testing, which concluded that the grade VII is the down parka. Below around 18 ounces, none of the parkas I've tested have been able to keep me warm on multi-day trips and/or have the features I find important on multi-day trips. For that reason, I don't know of any down garments that weigh less than 18 oz that qualify as a "proper parka."
Performance Comparison
Warmth
Though it only weighs a couple ounces more than standard down parkas, the Grade VII is significantly warmer. Perhaps 50% warmer. It is ideally suited to high altitudes and polar expeditions. The Grade VII is by far the best parka for climbing technical routes at high altitudes. It is also the best choice for any ultralight human-powered activity in really cold weather.
As with all expedition parkas, it also works well for standing around in the cold for a long time in a basecamp. But if you're just standing around, there's no need to the efficiency of the Grade VII; a heavier parka such as the Feathered Friends Khumbu shown below will work fine.
As with all expedition parkas, it also works well for standing around in the cold for a long time in a basecamp. But if you're just standing around, there's no need to the efficiency of the Grade VII; a heavier parka such as the Feathered Friends Khumbu shown below will work fine.
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| Note the difference between the length of the Patagonia Fitz Roy (left), Patagonia Grade VII (center), and Feathered Friends Khumbu (right). Of all the parkas I've tested, the Grade VII has the warmest and most comfortable drop-seat. Completely covering the butt adds a lot of warmth. Also, unlike the Khumbu and many other parkas, the front of the Grade VII curves up to save weight and prevent interference with a harness. |
Baffle Design
Box baffles are warmer than sewn-through baffles. The illustration below shows the difference.
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| Credit: Nunatak |
The Grade VII is the only parka I’ve used that employs 100% box baffled construction. Most others reduce warmth by using sewn-through construction. For example, the $825 Western Mountaineering Snojack uses sewn-through baffles under the arms. Similarly, the Feathered Friends Khumbu has a sewn-through hood. And, finally, the $950 Arcteryx Firebee AR uses pleated construction, which is not a true box baffle.
No other parka has as many box baffles as the Grade VII. Most of them are small, designed to stabilize the down. This is the key factor that separates it from the competition. For example, the Grade VII has nine baffles to stabilize the down in the shoulder area. Most other parkas have one single baffle here, which allows down to shift to the bottom of the baffle, leaving a cold spot.
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| The Grade VII parka has nine baffles across the shoulder area for superb stabilization. Due to the complexity of building these baffles, many other parkas have only one baffle here, which can result in cold spots. |
Weight
My men’s medium weighs 24.1 ounces. This is incredibly lightweight considering the level of warmth, expedition cut, eight pockets, and large helmet-compatible hood. Other parkas weigh less. But they perform at a much lower level. For example, the Feathered Friends Hooded Helios weighs 17 ounces. It is cut short—nearly a belly shirt on me—has sewn-through baffles that create cold spots, doesn’t have an adjustable waist so lots of cold air enters, has no internal drop-in pockets, doesn’t even have zippers on the small handwarmer pockets, and the hood is too small for comfortable use with a helmet and doesn’t have a rear adjustment to reduce the volume when you’re not wearing a helmet. The Hooded Helios saves seven ounces, but you’ll be shivering when someone in the Grade VII is toaster warm.
The chart below shows weight scores for 12 parkas tested. Higher scores are better. See the table above to compare the exact weights of all parkas tested.
The chart below shows weight scores for 12 parkas tested. Higher scores are better. See the table above to compare the exact weights of all parkas tested.
Features
This variable assesses the presence and quality of features that I have found to increase comfort, convenience, and warmth. he Patagonia Grade VII is leagues ahead of all other parkas when it came to its features. Here are a few highlights:
- Huge adjustable, helmet compatible hood with a high collar that protects the neck and chin - this is the best hood of all parkas I’ve tested;
- Long drop-seat completely covers the butt - this adds a large amount of warmth. Unlike other parkas, the bottom baffle hangs lower than the hem adjustment to further increase warmth;
- Two exterior chest pockets - this is the only parka I’ve used with two chest pockets. They are great when you want to securely store smaller items (for example, a lighter or your phone) while reserving the handwarmer pockets for your hands;
- An expedition fit is easily capable of accommodating two puffy midlayers;
Elasticized stitching in the interior back of the parka pull it close to your body, eliminating the need for a separate drawcord, which is used on other parkas; - Two handwarmer pockets are insulated on both sides;
- Two waist adjustments with cords that stow up, inside the interior pockets;
- It is the only parka with four interior drop-in pockets, two of which are off to the side for greatest visibility of your feet. Also, it is the only parka with drop-in pockets have mesh at the bottom to let snow out;
- Elasticized wrist cuffs are easy to pull over gloves and mittens and can also pull up over your elbows;
- Excellent arm mobility.
Overall, the features on the Grade VII set a high bar that no other parka comes close to.
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| Here are some superb features found on the Grade VII parka: (1) drop-in pocket off to the side to allow for good visibility of your feet; (2) standard drop-in pocket; (3) dual draft tubes insulate the zipper without getting caught in the zipper--the best design of all parkas tested; (4) mesh lets snow out of the pockets! (5) hem waist adjustment stows inside the pocket to prevent it from snagging on a harness. |
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| Fabric flaps cover the handwarmer pockets to prevent snow from entering when you forget to close the zippers. Also not the large, highly visible zipper pull. |
The chart below shows the features scores for 12 parkas tested.
Durability
The Patagonia Grade VII has one of the highest durability to weight ratios of all down parkas I’ve tested. It uses the Houdini fabric (a 1.2 ounce per yard 15-denier) on the arms, chest, and shoulders. No other fabric in this weight class can match the strength of this fabric. For example, here are the tear strengths for different premium lightweight fabrics used by Patagonia:
Grade VII Houdini (1.2 oz 15-denier): 3600 x 2800 grams of force (gf)
Grade VII back and sides (1.2 oz 20-denier): 3350 gf
Micro Puff synthetic insulated jacket (0.7 oz 7-denier): 1400 gf
Fitz Roy down parka (1.0 oz 20-denier): 1300 x 1150 gf
As you can see, the Grade VII fabrics are twice as robust as other premium lightweight fabrics.
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| The Grade VII’s durability is increased further by welding all baffles on the Houdini fabric, which is used in high wear areas (the darker blue fabric in this photo). The advantage of this construction method is there are fewer holes in the material, which means you can’t abrade the stitching, thereby reducing the likelihood of a tear. |
The chart below shows the durability scores for 12 parkas tested.
Compressibility
Compressibility can matter more than weight. With this in mind, Patagonia chose the 20-denier fabric instead of the Houdini for the back and sides because it is more supple and compressible. The result is a remarkably small packed size for an expedition grade parka.
Water Resistance
When a down parka is the best tool or the job, moisture comes from the Inside, not outside. I have found that highly water-resistant shell fabrics are not beneficial when used in down parkas designed for lightweight human-powered activities., They are not needed. Worse, they increase dry time.
To prevent moisture from entering the Grade VII, Patagonia added small fabric covers over the handwarmer pockets. These serve to prevent blowing snow from entering the pockets when we forget to close the pocket zippers. This feature can be particularly important when climbing at altitude, when the human brain is deprived of oxygen and more likely to make errors, such as forgetting to close pocket zippers. Also, I think it contributes to the Grade VII’s handsome aesthetics.
Value
For a premium down parka, the Grade VII is the best value. It performs significantly better than all other parkas in its price range: Western Mountaineering Snojack ($825), Arcteryx Ceres SV ($850), Arcteryx Firebee AR ($950).
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| Testing the Western Mountaineering Snojack, Feathered Friends Khumbu, and Patagonia Grade VII down parkas. |
Best applications
The Grade VII is best suited to technical climbing at high altitude where one needs a very warm parka, durable enough for cramped belays surrounded by sharp rocks, with lots of pockets, all at the lowest possible weight and smallest packed size. The Grade VII is also the best for other pursuits in extreme cold that demand a low weight and small packed size. For example, a 200-mile unsupported ski tour in the Arctic in December.
Compared To
Low Price: Montbell Frost Line - This is only $289 and performs significantly better than the Mountain Equipment Lightline, the cheapest parka tested, as well as many parkas that cost $100 more. This is my highest recommendation for anyone who doesn't use a parka often or doesn't need a "properly warm" parka. The Frost Line ties with the Feathered Friends Hooded Helios as the least warm parkas tested. I need something warmer.
Best All-Purpose: Patagonia Fitz Roy - This is the parka I use most frequently. I choose it for almost all day trips because I don't need the warmth of the Grade VII. It has some top-notch features borrowed from the Grade VII (e.g. dual draft tubes, excellent helmet-compatible hood, above average down stabilization, etc.) This is the parka I recommend most frequently to people looking for a versatile, lightweight model. $449.
Lowest Weight: Nunatak Kobuk Down Hoodie - This is the lightest fully-featured, box baffle parka that's warm enough for multi-day trips. Nunatak allows you to choose from a variety of fabrics and other custom options such as increasing the sleeve length and back length. When made in the 7-denier Robic fabric, a custom option, the Kobuk only weighs 18 oz. The Kobuk does not perform as well for climbing as the Fitz Roy because the hood, pockets, and dangly adjustment cords are inferior. But it is slightly warmer and 2 oz lighter in the standard fabric. The Kobuk costs $575 in the standard fabric when built with a similar pocket configuration as the Fitz Roy.
Mountaineering Guides: Feathered Friends Khumbu - If you spend several months guiding and teaching mountaineering each year, I recommend the Khumbu. This is the warmest and most durable parka tested. It's superb for standing around in the cold. It would also be excellent for other applications in frigid conditions where low weight is not important, such as living in the Arctic. 35 oz and $499. If you don't mind carrying around a two-pound parka, the Khumbu is an excellent value for truly frigid conditions.
Conclusion
The Patagonia Grade VII is the best down parka in the world. I recommend it only if you are attempting a challenging trip in very cold weather where saving weight is critical to success. It is too warm and unnecessarily high performance for everyday use. However, if you have the privilege of using one, I am confident you'll immediately notice the outstanding craftsmanship. To learn more, watch Steve House share his thoughts in this video on Patagonia's website.
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| Grade VII parka on a ski mountaineering trip in the Chugach Mountains, Alaska. |
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