Down Parkas
The down parka is my favorite type of clothing. When it’s frigid and you’re exhausted, a great one can make the difference between a sufferfest and a relatively pleasant time. Unfortunately, building great ones requires sophisticated design (a box-baffled parka is likely the most complex piece of clothing we wear), access to the best materials, and laborious construction. Cottage industry companies like Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering, Valandre, PhD Deigns, etc. don’t have the resources to craft the finest. The two best down parkas are now:
Patagonia Grade VII
This improves the already phenomenal Encapsil Parka. It’s warmer (longer and with more down), more weather resistant (welded seams on the shoulders and chest), has better features (two interior stash pockets, two chest pockets, and a superb hood with a high collar). I’m confident this is the best all-purpose down parka on the planet. 25 oz. $899.
Arcteryx Firebee AR
Hydrophobia has long permeated Arcteryx's apparel line. They recently released the most weather resistant down parka on the planet. It has a seam-taped 30D Gore Thermium shell with a hung down-filled liner. This is the only good synthetic parka substitute available today (the Crux eVent parkas have terrible hoods and other features). Though it's not likely to come close to providing the same warmth as the Grade VII, it will be a lot better for expeditions that cross multiple climates, such as ski mountaineering trips across a variety of elevations. Will the increased durability compared to synthetic parkas make the $950 investment worthwhile? Quite possibly. The Patagonia DAS, the best value synthetic parka, costs $300 and likely lasts for two seasons of hard use. With its tougher fabrics and super durable down, the Firebee might offer greater performance and long-term value—if you’re a mountain guide, do lots of winter expeditions, or just want the most stormproof down parka. 24 oz.
Active Insulation
Detailed reviews for these jackets are coming soon via BackpackingLight.com.
Patagonia Nano Air Light
This is the best active insulation jacket for ultralight winter travel and alpine climbing. It’s less warm, far more breathable and more durable than the original Nano Air Hoody. If I were to have one active insulation jacket, I’d choose this one. Patagonia also released Nano Air Light pants, which might be revolutionary. Seriously, Colin Haley, a Patagonia climbing ambassador, wore only the Nano Air Light pants and the DAS pants for his epic Infinite Spur solo. In cold environs, it appears they're all we need, which could save a lot of weight.
Using the Nano Air Light (orange) on a mountaineering traverse in late June, Chugach mountains, Alaska |
The new best all-purpose active insulation piece and the first to use a continuous filament insulation, which Arcteryx spent many years developing. Compared to the Nano Air Light it’s more durable, slightly warmer, slightly heavier, and has handwarmer pockets. The extra durability, both in the face fabric and insulation, is especially good for alpine rock climbers and people who are going to use it around town.
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